Malt Extract | All Grain | Extract/Grain
Besides the usual brewing equipment you will need a 19L stock pot or canning
pot for a partial mash, and an additional 19L stock pot for all grain if
you are boiling on a stove top. Or you can take it outside with a propane
burner and a 30 litre (at least) stock pot. There
is a way to cram an all-grain brew into a 20 litre kettle (inefficiently) but for now let's
assume that you are doing a full wort boil. A wort chiller is highly recommended.
You will also need a mash tun.
These recipes assume a yield of .005 S.G. for every pound of malt in 23
litres. In other words 10 lbs of 2-row should yield an original gravity
of 1.050. If your mileage varies, adjust accordingly. The important thing
is that you get the gravity called for, not the absolute amount of pale
malt you use. However, do not adjust specialty malts.
View instructions • Download instructions
Pilsner O.G. - 1.045
9 lb pale malt (all grain) OR 6 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
.5 lb carapil
5 AAU Saaz or Hallertau or Mt. Hood - 45 minutes
1/2 oz Saaz or Hallertau or Mt. Hood - 30 minutes
1/2 oz Saaz or Hallertau or Mt. Hood - 15 minutes
1 oz Saaz or Hallertau or Mt. Hood - finishing
Lager culture or neutral ale yeast
This is a classic European pilsner a la Pilsner Urquell.
Honey Pale Ale O.G. - 1.050
9 lb pale malt (all grain) OR 6 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
1 lb or so honey
8 oz Honey malt
4 oz carapils malt
1 oz Willamette: 75% boil, 25% finish
1 oz cascade: 75% boil, 25% finish
ale yeast
prime with 2/3 cup of honey
Honey, being 100% fermentable, tends to dry the beer out rather than sweeten it. This ale uses the classic Shaftebury hop blend -- Cascade/Willamette, 75% boil, 25% finish -- for a well rounded, but not overpowering hop character. Stir the honey into your kettle after you have finished boiling - boiling the honey will drive off most of its flavour and aroma, leaving you with pretty much pure invert sugar. The type of honey you use isn't critical because a lot of its subtleties will be carried off with the CO2 during fermentation. If you have some really nice aromatic honey, save it for priming.
Traditional Ale - O.G. - 1.045
9 lb pale malt (all grain) OR 6 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
4 oz carapil malt
4 oz Carastan malt
9 AAU bittering hop (60 minutes)
1 oz cascade/willamette (finishing hops)
1 oz cascade/willamette (dry hops)
Ale yeast
This is a light, crisp English Bitter, with a huge, full spectrum
hop flavour and aroma. Originally based on Shaftebury Traditional Ale (Vancouver
hop lovers' favourite circa 1990), this recipe has evolved slowly over the
years with the addition of dry hopping and slightly increased bitterness.
Grapefruit Bitter - O.G. - 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
12 oz carastan malt
4 oz wheat malt
9 AAU Centennial bittering hops (60 minutes)
1.5 oz Centennial finishing hops
ale yeast
A Pacific North-West style English bitter. Centennial hops give
this beer a citrusy - grapefruit flavour. I recommend using whole hops for
the full effect.
Rookie Pale Ale O.G. - 1.058
12 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 8 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
12 oz Honey Malt
4 oz carastan malt
10.7 AAU Centennial (boiling hops - 60 minutes)
1.5 oz Centennial Finishing hops
ale yeast
Local theatre producer Kim Tough actually lived in one of Vancouver's
finest breweries for two years. And then one day the lousy bastard threw
her out and she had to learn how to make her own beer. This was her first
beer, all grain, and it was so good that I brewed it again myself. Sorry
Kim, but you can't keep your recipes a secret from your brewing supplier.
Strathcona Pale Ale - O.G. - 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
8 oz British Crystal Malt
4 oz Wheat Malt
9.4 AAU Cascade/Goldings (boiling hops)
1 oz Cascade 33% / Goldings 66% (finishing hops)
ale yeast
This is my personal favourite pale ale recipe. Well balanced between
malt and hop, bitterness is right down the middle at 30 IBU's. I like to
use a slightly fruity, but not over the top yeast such as #1968, and I admit
that I often dry hop it. Brambling Cross is nice.
Owen Meany Bitter Ale - O.G. - 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
8 oz carapils
4 oz carastan
15 AAU northern brewer, or other (BOIL FOR ONE HOUR)
1 oz brambling cross (FOR FINISHING)
ale yeast
IT'S GOOD, TRY IT, BUT IT WOULD BE AN UNSPEAKABLE OUTRAGE TO CUT
DOWN ON THE BITTERING HOPS.
Granville Island Pale Ale - O.G. - 1.048
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
8 oz British crystal
4 oz carapils malt
1 oz chocolate malt
8 AAU Northern Brewer 60 minutes
.75 oz Cascade finishing hops
ale yeast
Fairly dark, for a pale ale, malty, a bit sweet, but the hops do
come through, especially when consumed with barbequed food.
India Pale Ale - O.G. 1.056
12 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 8 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
10 oz Carastan malt
15 AAU - Centennial bittering hops
.75 oz Willamette finishing hops
.75 oz Centennial or Cascade finishing hops
1 oz Willamette/centennial or Willamette/Cascade dry hops
Ale Yeast
Compared to Storm's Hurricane, this is a tamer, more traditional
English I.P.A., though I've still opted for the more aggressive Pacific
North-West hops. For a more authentic English I.P.A., use East Kent Goldings,
Brambling Cross, or Challenger and add a heaping teaspoon of gypsum.
Storm Hurricane IPA - O.G. 1.065
15 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 10 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
18 AAU - Centennial bittering hops
.75 oz Willamette finishing hops
.75 oz Centennial or Cascade finishing hops
1 oz Willamette/centennial or Willamette/Cascade dry hops
Ale Yeast
2 tsp gypsum
Storm Brewing uses Gambrinus 2-row pale malt. The malt you buy from
me actually comes out of Storm's 1 tonne totes. When you brew a beer without
using any specialty malts, your choice of 2-row is critical. High pH can
also be a problem -- specialty malts are acidic and tend to take care of
that - and that's why I've suggested gypsum.
The original gravity of the commercial beer actually varies from 1.057 to 1.070 depending on the time of year, what kind of mood James is in, not to mention what kind of day the beer gods are having. The whole flower hops that I sell are from the same bales that Storm uses, and I usually have yeast (#1968) from the brewery available.
ESB O.G. - 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
12 oz British crystal
1 oz chocolate
1 1/2 oz willamette - 75% boil, 25% finish
1 oz cascade - 75% boil, 25% finish
ale yeast
This is a very malty, full-bodied, deep coloured Extra Special Bitter.
The nose is decidedly malty - caramel, with perceivable hop coming through.
If you prefer more hop intensity, try dry hopping with Goldings, or a Willamette
- Cascade blend.
Storm Highlander Scottish Ale O.G. 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
6 AAU - Willamette (boil 60 minutes)
9 oz honey malt
8 oz barley flakes
2 oz roast barley
2 oz peated malt
Ale Yeast
This is Storm Brewing's Scottish Ale recipe, formulated by Scottish
punk rocker David "Malty" Macanulty. Storm uses a fairly cool
fermentation temperature, about 18 degrees with Wyeast 1968.
Extra Special Shaftebury Cream Ale O.G. - 1.048
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) or 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
4 oz carapils malt
5 oz British crystal malt
4 oz chocolate malt
1 oz willamette
1 oz cascade
ale yeast
The term "Extra Special", when applied to a known style
of beer, is a brewer's subtle way of warning the consumer that a beer is
a stronger, more intense version of the standard. This recipe maintains
the balance of Shaftebury Cream Ale (a textbook English Mild, by the way),
but intensifies it by proportionately increasing maltiness, hoppiness and
alcohol content.
Shirley's Nutbrown Ale O.G. - 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
8 oz British crystal
8 oz chocolate
2 oz roast barley
8 oz wheat
6.3 AAU Goldings
.4 oz Goldings (finishing)
ale yeast
Shirley Warne originally brewed this beer in the late 1980's at
the Amsterdam Brewpub in Toronto. She later brought the recipe with her
to the Steamworks Brewpub here in Vancouver. This is a full bodied, chewy,
complex ale, conservatively hopped in order to let the malt flavours come
through. Highly recommended.
Strathcona Porter O.G. 1.060
12.5 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 9 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
9 oz Crystal Malt
12 oz Black Patent Malt
14 AAU Willamette or Fuggles
Ale Yeast
This is a thick chewy porter. The bittering hops balance all that
residual sweetness due to the high gravity and all that booze. If you prefer
a sweeter porter, cut the A.A.U.'s back to about 9 or 10.
Dry Irish Stout O.G. 1.050
9 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
1 lb Roasted Barley
1 lb Barley Flakes
16 AAU
Ale Yeast
Classic dry Irish stout. The Barley flakes contribute creaminess
and head retention. If you go for that kind of thing, use even more.
Top
Single Infusion Mashing
These instructions assume that you are using a mash tun made from a single plastic bucket. Mashing in your kettle will require rigorous temperature control not covered here.
1. Heat 1 litre of strike water for each pound of grain to 78 degrees Celsius.
2. Preheat mashtun with a good hot water rinse. Set your mash tun on a pedestal close to your stove so that the spigot is above the top of your kettle(s). (if you don't have a pedestal, a milk crate on the counter will do) Add enough strike water to cover the screen and then alternate adding water and grain, stirring gently, just enough to break up any dry clumps. I mean "gently". As soon as you're mashed in, slowly draw a litre or so from the spigot and add it back in to the top, recirculating, repeat 3 or 4 times. This will even out any hot or cold spots and clarify the wort by getting rid of small bits of husk (they will get caught in the grain bed). Even this early in the process you can observe the enzymes doing their work as the run-off transforms from cloudy/starchy to clear/sweet. The temperature should now be between 65 and 70 C. I leave a floating glass thermometer in the centre of the grain bed.
3. Cover the mash tun and let rest for an hour. A
plastic bucket is actually a pretty good insulator, your temperature should
only drop about 1-2 degrees. The starch will convert to sugar during this
rest. A longer, cooler rest (65 C - 2 hrs) will result in a more fermentable
wort -- ie. more alcohol, less body, A shorter, hotter rest (70 C - 20 to 30
minutes) will result in a less fermentable wort -- ie. higher terminal
gravity, less alcohol, more body and head.
4. While that is resting, fill your kettle with water
and bring it to a boil. You will need about 23 litres of sparge water to end
up with 23 litres of wort at the end of the boil. Much of your strike water
is absorbed by the dry grain, and you have to allow for evaporation during
the hop boil. Transfer this water to a bucket (your primary will work
nicely).
7. By the end of the starch rest, the wort should be fully converted, and quite sweet and clear. Slowly begin run off by opening the spigot. If you still see solids, re-circulate some more (step 2). Yeah, I know, the internet says that re-circulation is critical at this point, but if you re-circulated at mash-in, (step 2) it's usually superfluous now. Use a hose on the spigot to run off directly into kettle while kettle is on stove, start adding sparge water, about a litre at a time, as soon as the water level falls below the top of the grain bed, but wait until you have run 3 or 4 litres of sparge water through , to dilute your first runnings before turning on the stove. Slow the run-off down to a trickle until it comes to a boil. Increase the flow just enough to control the boil. Sparging should take about an hour. If you're using two stock pots, alternate filling them, or put a tee in your outflow line so they will have approximately the same gravity.
Maintain the water level at about the level of the grain bed, adding a litre or so at a time. The temperature of the grain bed should be maintained between 70 and 75 degrees during the sparge. Since you are starting with near-boiling sparge water, which is cooling in your bucket throughout the sparge (1 hour), this will pretty much take care of itself. It takes a surprising amount of "overheated" sparge water to get your grain bed up to a "mash-out" of 75 degrees. And by then, your sparge water will be about, well, 75 degrees. Keep an eye on that floating thermometer. If the grain bed gets above 75 degrees, don't panic, but add cold water along with the hot sparge water.
8. When sparging is done and kettle is boiling, add hops and boil 1 hour.
9. 20 minutes before the end of the boil, re hydrate 1 tsp Irish Moss in a few ounces of warm water. Add 10 minutes before the end of the boil.
10. If you are using an immersion wort chiller, submerge it in the boiling
wort for the last 15 minutes of the boil to sanitize it.
11. Finishing hops go in as per recipe. I usually give whole hops an extra couple of minutes because they tend to clump around the wort chiller at first. But it's not a big deal if some of them are still dry and floating when you turn off the heat. They'll sink and steep while you're chilling.
12. Chill your wort as fast as you can. If you don't have a wort chiller, use the bath tub.
13. If you are using whole hops pour the chilled wort through a strainer or colander held over your primary, this also adequately aerates the wort. If you are using pellets syphon the wort to leave the hops and trub behind and you will need to aerate the wort.
16. brew as usual.