Malt Extract | All Grain | Extract/Grain
Besides the usual brewing equipment you will need a 19L stock pot or canning
pot for a partial mash, and an additional 19L stock pot for all grain if
you are boiling on a stove top. There
is a way to cram an all-grain brew into a 20 litre kettle but for now let's
assume that you are doing a full wort boil. A wort chiller is highly recommended.
You will also need a mash tun.
These recipes assume a yield of .005 S.G. for every pound of malt in 23
litres. In other words 10 lbs of 2-row should yield an original gravity
of 1.050. If your mileage varies, adjust accordingly. The important thing
is that you get the gravity called for, not the absolute amount of pale
malt you use. However, do not adjust specialty malts.
View instructions • Download instructions
Pilsner O.G. - 1.045
9 lb pale malt (all grain) OR 6 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
.5 lb carapil
5 AAU Saaz or Hallertau or Mt. Hood - 45 minutes
1/2 oz Saaz or Hallertau or Mt. Hood - 30 minutes
1/2 oz Saaz or Hallertau or Mt. Hood - 15 minutes
1 oz Saaz or Hallertau or Mt. Hood - finishing
Lager culture or neutral ale yeast
This is a classic European pilsner a la Pilsner Urquell.
Honey Pale Ale O.G. - 1.050
9 lb pale malt (all grain) OR 6 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
1 lb or so honey
8 oz Honey malt
4 oz carapils malt
1 oz Willamette: 75% boil, 25% finish
1 oz cascade: 75% boil, 25% finish
ale yeast
prime with 2/3 cup of honey
Honey, being 100% fermentable, tends to dry the beer out rather than sweeten it. This ale uses the classic Shaftebury hop blend -- Cascade/Willamette, 75% boil, 25% finish -- for a well rounded, but not overpowering hop character. Stir the honey into your kettle after you have finished boiling - boiling the honey will drive off most of its flavour and aroma, leaving you with pretty much pure invert sugar. The type of honey you use isn't critical because a lot of its subtleties will be carried off with the CO2 during fermentation. If you have some really nice aromatic honey, save it for priming.
Traditional Ale - O.G. - 1.045
9 lb pale malt (all grain) OR 6 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
4 oz carapil malt
4 oz Carastan malt
9 AAU bittering hop (60 minutes)
1 oz cascade/willamette (finishing hops)
1 oz cascade/willamette (dry hops)
Ale yeast
This is a light, crisp English Bitter, with a huge, full spectrum
hop flavour and aroma. Originally based on Shaftebury Traditional Ale (Vancouver
hop lovers' favourite circa 1990), this recipe has evolved slowly over the
years with the addition of dry hopping and slightly increased bitterness.
Grapefruit Bitter - O.G. - 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
12 oz carastan malt
4 oz wheat malt
9 AAU Centennial bittering hops (60 minutes)
1.5 oz Centennial finishing hops
ale yeast
A Pacific North-West style English bitter. Centennial hops give
this beer a citrusy - grapefruit flavour. I recommend using whole hops for
the full effect.
Rookie Pale Ale O.G. - 1.058
12 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 8 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
12 oz Honey Malt
4 oz carastan malt
10.7 AAU Centennial (boiling hops - 60 minutes)
1.5 oz Centennial Finishing hops
ale yeast
Local theatre producer Kim Tough actually lived in one of Vancouver's
finest breweries for two years. And then one day the lousy bastard threw
her out and she had to learn how to make her own beer. This was her first
beer, all grain, and it was so good that I brewed it again myself. Sorry
Kim, but you can't keep your recipes a secret from your brewing supplier.
Strathcona Pale Ale - O.G. - 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
8 oz British Crystal Malt
4 oz Wheat Malt
9.4 AAU Cascade/Goldings (boiling hops)
1 oz Cascade 33% / Goldings 66% (finishing hops)
ale yeast
This is my personal favourite pale ale recipe. Well balanced between
malt and hop, bitterness is right down the middle at 30 IBU's. I like to
use a slightly fruity, but not over the top yeast such as #1968, and I admit
that I often dry hop it. Brambling Cross is nice.
Owen Meany Bitter Ale - O.G. - 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
8 oz carapils
4 oz carastan
15 AAU northern brewer, or other (BOIL FOR ONE HOUR)
1 oz brambling cross (FOR FINISHING)
ale yeast
IT'S GOOD, TRY IT, BUT IT WOULD BE AN UNSPEAKABLE OUTRAGE TO CUT
DOWN ON THE BITTERING HOPS.
Granville Island Pale Ale - O.G. - 1.048
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
8 oz British crystal
4 oz carapils malt
1 oz chocolate malt
8 AAU Northern Brewer 60 minutes
.75 oz Cascade finishing hops
ale yeast
Fairly dark, for a pale ale, malty, a bit sweet, but the hops do
come through, especially when consumed with barbequed food.
India Pale Ale - O.G. 1.056
12 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 8 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
10 oz Carastan malt
15 AAU - Centennial bittering hops
.75 oz Willamette finishing hops
.75 oz Centennial or Cascade finishing hops
1 oz Willamette/centennial or Willamette/Cascade dry hops
Ale Yeast
Compared to Storm's Hurricane, this is a tamer, more traditional
English I.P.A., though I've still opted for the more aggressive Pacific
North-West hops. For a more authentic English I.P.A., use East Kent Goldings,
Brambling Cross, or Challenger and add a heaping teaspoon of gypsum.
Storm Hurricane IPA - O.G. 1.065
15 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 10 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
18 AAU - Centennial bittering hops
.75 oz Willamette finishing hops
.75 oz Centennial or Cascade finishing hops
1 oz Willamette/centennial or Willamette/Cascade dry hops
Ale Yeast
2 tsp gypsum
Storm Brewing uses Gambrinus 2-row pale malt. The malt you buy from
me actually comes out of Storm's 1 tonne totes. When you brew a beer without
using any specialty malts, your choice of 2-row is critical. High pH can
also be a problem -- specialty malts are acidic and tend to take care of
that - and that's why I've suggested gypsum.
The original gravity of the commercial beer actually varies from 1.057 to 1.070 depending on the time of year, what kind of mood James is in, not to mention what kind of day the beer gods are having. The whole flower hops that I sell are from the same bales that Storm uses, and I usually have yeast (#1968) from the brewery available.
ESB O.G. - 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
12 oz British crystal
1 oz chocolate
1 1/2 oz willamette - 75% boil, 25% finish
1 oz cascade - 75% boil, 25% finish
ale yeast
This is a very malty, full-bodied, deep coloured Extra Special Bitter.
The nose is decidedly malty - caramel, with perceivable hop coming through.
If you prefer more hop intensity, try dry hopping with Goldings, or a Willamette
- Cascade blend.
Storm Highlander Scottish Ale O.G. 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
6 AAU - Willamette (boil 60 minutes)
9 oz honey malt
8 oz barley flakes
2 oz roast barley
2 oz peated malt
Ale Yeast
This is Storm Brewing's Scottish Ale recipe, formulated by Scottish
punk rocker David "Malty" Macanulty. Storm uses a fairly cool
fermentation temperature, about 18 degrees with Wyeast 1968.
Extra Special Shaftebury Cream Ale O.G. - 1.048
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) or 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
4 oz carapils malt
5 oz British crystal malt
4 oz chocolate malt
1 oz willamette
1 oz cascade
ale yeast
The term "Extra Special", when applied to a known style
of beer, is a brewer's subtle way of warning the consumer that a beer is
a stronger, more intense version of the standard. This recipe maintains
the balance of Shaftebury Cream Ale (a textbook English Mild, by the way),
but intensifies it by proportionately increasing maltiness, hoppiness and
alcohol content.
Shirley's Nutbrown Ale O.G. - 1.050
10 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
8 oz British crystal
8 oz chocolate
2 oz roast barley
8 oz wheat
6.3 AAU Goldings
.4 oz Goldings (finishing)
ale yeast
Shirley Warne originally brewed this beer in the late 1980's at
the Amsterdam Brewpub in Toronto. She later brought the recipe with her
to the Steamworks Brewpub here in Vancouver. This is a full bodied, chewy,
complex ale, conservatively hopped in order to let the malt flavours come
through. Highly recommended.
Strathcona Porter O.G. 1.060
12.5 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 9 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
9 oz Crystal Malt
12 oz Black Patent Malt
14 AAU Willamette or Fuggles
Ale Yeast
This is a thick chewy porter. The bittering hops balance all that
residual sweetness due to the high gravity and all that booze. If you prefer
a sweeter porter, cut the A.A.U.'s back to about 9 or 10.
Dry Irish Stout O.G. 1.050
9 lb Pale Malt (all grain) OR 6.5 lb pale malt and 3 lb pale malt extract
(partial mash)
1 lb Roasted Barley
1 lb Barley Flakes
16 AAU
Ale Yeast
Classic dry Irish stout. The Barley flakes contribute creaminess
and head retention. If you go for that kind of thing, use even more.
Top
Single Infusion Mashing
These instructions assume that you are using a mash tun made from a single
plastic bucket. Mashing in your kettle will require rigorous temperature
control not covered here.
1. Heat 1 litre of water for each pound of grain to 78 degrees Celsius.
(don't you just love the Canadian metric system?)
2. Preheat mashtun with a good hot water rinse. As soon as the strike water
is heated, transfer to mash tun, and then stir in malt, -- not malt extract.
Check that the temperature is 66 to 68 degrees C. Temperature can be adjusted
by adding cold or boiling water, but re-stir and check again before taking
corrective measures, it does take a few minutes for the malt to absorb the
water.
3. Put the lid on the mash tun and cover with towels, or anything insulating,
as any heat loss likely to occur will be through the lid. My personal experience
is that the temperature only drops a couple of degrees in the course of
a one hour mash, even without insulation. A plastic bucket is pretty good
insulation itself compared to a stainless steel kettle.
4. Let rest for 1 hour. The starch will convert to sugar during this rest.
A longer rest will result in a more fermentable wort -- ie. more alcohol,
less body, A shorter, hotter (70 C) rest will result in a less fermentable
wort -- ie. higher terminal gravity.
5. Fill your kettle with water and bring it to a boil. This is your sparge
water and you will need it ready at the end of the starch rest. Transfer
this water to a bucket (your primary will work nicely).
6. 20 minutes or so into the starch rest, take a sample of a half litre
or so from the spigot. You will notice that it is cloudy and starchy, but
already turning quite sweet. Return sample to mash tun. Repeat this step
every 10 minutes or so, observing the transformation to a sweet clear wort.
7. By the end of the starch rest, the wort should be fully converted, and
quite sweet and clear. Slowly begin run off by opening the spigot. Use a
hose on the spigot to run off directly into kettle while kettle is on stove,
but wait until you have collected a few litres of wort before turning on
heat.
8. As soon as water level falls below top of grain bed start adding sparge
water a litre or so at a time, maintaining water level at grain bed level.
9. The temperature of the grain bed should be maintained between 70 and
75 degrees during the sparge. Since you are starting with near-boiling sparge
water, which is cooling in your bucket throughout the sparge, this will
pretty much take care of itself. However, if the temperature in the middle
of the grain bed gets above 75 degrees, don't panic, but add cold water
along with the hot sparge water.
10. When sparging is done and kettle is boiling, add hops and boil 1 hour.
Mid boil hops go in as usual according to recipe.
11. 20 minutes before the end of the boil, re hydrate 1 tsp Irish Moss in
a few ounces of warm water. Add 10 minutes before the end of the boil.
12. If you are partial mashing, warm up the malt extract and add 15 minutes
before the end of the boil. Once boiling resumes, submerge your wort chiller
in the boiling wort and leave it there. This will effectively sterilize
it.
13. Finishing hops go in as per recipe. I usually give whole hops an extra
couple of minutes because they tend to clump around the wort chiller at
first.
14. Chill your wort as fast as you can. If you don't have a wort chiller, use the bath tub.
15. If you are using whole hops pour the chilled wort through a strainer
or colander held over your primary, this also adequately aerates the wort.
If you are using pellets rack the wort to leave the hops and trub behind.
You will need to aerate the wort.
16. brew as usual.